Concrete parking lot building in Hilo HI - pavement sized for your heaviest vehicle

The cost comes down to the lot's size, how thick the slab has to be and how much ground work it takes, so I give you a number only after I've seen the site. Our written estimate breaks out what's included and what isn't, so you can see where the money goes and compare bids. Send us the size, the vehicles and the address, and I'll set a time to come out.

For cars and pickups only, industry guidance says 4-inch concrete with no rebar, the steel bars set inside a slab to help it carry load, is usually enough, and lots that see light trucks may need 5 or 6 inches. The right thickness also depends on the ground underneath and the strength of the concrete. That's why I ask about your heaviest vehicle before anything else.

You'll need a county grading permit from the Hilo office if the job digs out or fills more than 100 cubic yards, builds up more than 5 feet high, or changes how water drains toward your neighbors. Clearing more than an acre, or clearing that shifts drainage toward neighbors, needs a separate grubbing permit, and the state's historic preservation office reviews these applications too, which adds a step. We look into permits while we plan your job, and when one's needed we handle the county paperwork and tell you what it involves.

It can be if runoff worries you, because pervious concrete is a porous mix that lets rain soak through the surface and back into the ground instead of running off the lot. Industry guidance says it shouldn't take in rain where fuel or oil collects, like a fueling spot or a place you work on vehicles, since that water can carry contamination into the ground. If your lot has a repair area, we'll talk through keeping that part solid.

Plan on cleaning and restriping, sealing cracks and patching spalls, where the surface flakes or chips away, plus replacing or stabilizing a slab if a low spot forms and starts holding water. If your joints get sealed, they'll need resealing over the years, so ask about that up front and budget for it. Control joints, the grooves we cut so the slab cracks along a straight line instead of wherever it likes, keep most of that cracking where you'd expect it.

Under the state contractor rules, concrete work falls under the C-31a cement concrete class and the dirt work under the C-17 excavating, grading and trenching class, and a general engineering contractor holds both. Ask whoever you hire which license they carry and make sure it covers the concrete and the grading. We're licensed and insured, and I work on site with the crew that pours your lot.